The Other Critics

Gus & Gabriel Is ‘Obscene’; Ed’s Chowder House Has Promise

Gus & Gabriel “fills a void in New York, offering fatty foods rarely encountered outside the Midwest. Much of it is delicious, and nearly all of it is obscene,” says Jay Cheshes. [TONY]
Related: A Closer Look at Gus & Gabriel and Its ‘Flask Service’

“Of everything Hotel Griffou offers, the drinks are the easiest things to swallow. They helped buff the rough edges of the food that followed,” writes Pete Wells. [NYT]
Related: First Look at Hotel Griffou, Opening for Public Previews Tonight

At Ed’s Chowder House, “the challenge will be … turning out food as good as it is tonight after [chef Ed] Brown decides he feels comfortable enough to shift his focus back to his own uptown estate,” predicts Gael Greene. [Insatiable Critic]
Related: First Look at Ed’s Chowder House, From Jeffrey Chodorow and Ed Brown

Vintage décor at sports tavern Warren 77, co-owned by Sean Avery, “seems to signify that the owners were more interested in style than sweat,” writes Andrea Thompson. [NYer]
Related: First Look at Warren 77

“Nonvegetarian regional South Indian fare is surfacing like a submarine,” says Robert Sietsema, who finds Coconut Grove to be a “sweet addition to Curry Hill.” [VV]

Gus & Gabriel Is ‘Obscene’; Ed’s Chowder House Has Promise