• Christopher Borrelli (welcome back to food reviewing!) joins the camp of hating Browntrout’s name, but falling for the execution. The kitchen has a tendency towards understatement, , bwhich can occasionally lead to blandness, but most dishes shine. [Tribune]
• Brunch at Nana gets summed up in one word — sunny — by David Tamarkin. Of particular luminescence is the “nanadict” — eggs benedict served pupusa-style — but even if nothing worked, the neighborhood needed this place. [TOC]
• A high-end kosher contemporary seafood restaurant like Morgan Harbor Grill doesn’t have too much competition in its category, but even if it did, Heather Shouse thinks it would score: chef Erik Williams turns out inspired platings that are, okay, a teensy bit overpriced. But who’s complaining? [TOC]
