The Other Critics

Nightwood Rocks; Merlo La Salumeria Needs Work

• Phil Vettel raves for Nightwood, which he declares “lives up to the hype” with its farm-to-table menu that’s simple and tasty. Brunch is coming soon, too. [Tribune]

• Angin Mamiri, the new Indonesian restaurant in Rogers Park, benefits from its lack of ethnic competition: the intriguingly-named dishes don’t quite follow through with flavor. Monica Eng hopes they’ll be more liberal with the spices in time. [Tribune]

• The food sounds better than it tastes at the revamped Mundial, says Julia Kramer. The restaurant dropped their BYO and overhauled the menu with colorful options that almost, but not quite, live up to their promise. [TOC]

• The Lincoln Ave. outpost of Merlo has changed its name to Merlo La Salumeria and added some small plates to its menu, but Heather Shouse thinks it needs to commit more honestly: the entree plates feel shortchanged of sides, though the pastas are impressive. [TOC]

• Michael Nagrant has been having “intense pregnant-lady cravings” for tacos lately, and the food at Carbon has helped him out. The fish taco is duly praised, but the real gem is the steak: thick and smoky. [NewCity]

Nightwood Rocks; Merlo La Salumeria Needs Work