The Other Critics

It Gets Worse: Bruni Dislikes Anchovies, Too

We’ve now found out exactly what Frank Bruni said during today’s lunch at Shake Shack that caused Metromix editor and pilchard eschewer Matt Rodbard to believe he “hates” sardines. “Hate” is such a strong word to use about sardines, which, after all, are to fish what cute little kittens are to cats — could an esteemed restaurant critic really have gone that far? Here’s the relevant portion of the interview, which may or may not make it into Metromix’s feature when it runs tomorrow.

Any food you are totally adverse to?
I’ve never been fond of sardines or anchovies. If a restaurant’s pride and joy is its anchovies appetizer, it’s unfortunately going to be lost on me. I’m sure for almost every critic there is something like that. For me, that’s about it. I probably wouldn’t have given a high rating to an all insect restaurant, but I never came across that.

Is this aversion from your time in Italy?
No, from a very young age. There is a particular quality to the fishiness that I never liked. That said, the saltiness of anchovies pureed into a salad dressing, I’m fine with that.

My, Bruni does come awfully close to saying he doesn’t like fishy fish, something we’ve just never understood. Do people say they don’t like porky pork? Or chickeny chicken? Oh well. More for us!

Earlier: Breaking Scandal: Does Frank Bruni Hate Sardines?

It Gets Worse: Bruni Dislikes Anchovies, Too