The Other Critics

Browntrout Transcends its Name; Eivissa Too Foamy

One of Sunda's inspired sushi creations
One of Sunda’s inspired sushi creations Photo: courtesy Sunda

• Phil Vettel’s review of Eivissa takes the form of an open letter of intervention to chef Dudley Nieto: “step away from the foam machine.” The otherwise perfectly serviceable tapas are overwhelmed by pretentious flourishes out of character with the restaurant’s laid-back vibe. [Tribune]

Browntrout really impresses David Tamarkin, even though he can’t stand the restaurant’s “horrific” name. The one misstep on an otherwise deft menu are the “clunky” waffle fries. Stick with trout (or lamb, or walleye) and you’ll be good. [TOC]

• A survey of the crowd at Sunda convinces Michael Nagrant that this is “the culinary playground for the genetically gifted,” but chef Rodelio Aglibot’s inspired (and often, theatrical) takes on Asian cuisine elevate the restaurant above mere scenesterism — like a one-off, high-drama P.F. Chang’s. [CS]

Browntrout Transcends its Name; Eivissa Too Foamy