The Other Critics

Vongerichten’s Spice Market Rebuttal Doesn’t Quite Hold Water

Photo: Carina Salvi

After scolding Platt for “misunderstanding” Matsugen, Jean-Georges Vongerichten now says he’s “disappointed” with Frank Bruni’s one-star review of Spice Market, in which he called Vongo “equal parts proud artist and profit-hungry entrepreneur.” (Guess JGV didn’t get Cuozzo’s memo about griping about reviews.) While admitting that he has to fix certain instances of sloppiness, Jean-Georges insists the restaurant is a “deeply personal project”: “The food at Spice Market is excellent — and I intend to keep making it better and better. Besides, I can personally attest to the fact that there’s no better place to eat well and have a great time. After all, it’s where Marja and I got married!” Problem is, they got married four years ago, which is exactly when Bruni remembers Spice Market being worthwhile. And sure, he spent a lot of time cooking in Asia before the restaurant launched, but what has he done for it lately?

Spice Market [Jean-Georges Vongerichten via Eater]

Vongerichten’s Spice Market Rebuttal Doesn’t Quite Hold Water