Now that the bánh mì has had its moment, everyone wants to anoint a new new panini, and GQ Details has decided the “new best sandwich contender” is the torta, that Mexican meat bomb consisting of avocado, jalapeños, beans, and such. Author JJ Goode doesn’t say what exactly makes the torta “new,” but in any case he chooses the one at Los Dados (made with house-pickled Serrano chiles, red onions, Oaxaca cheese, and salsa) as the prime New York example. We can’t remember if we’ve ever had the torta there, and when we tried to around 10 p.m. last night, we were told the taqueria’s kitchen was closed. That alone might disqualify it, since a true torta should be wolfed down as the sun comes up, preferably off of a truck on Roosevelt Avenue. That said, if chefs want to charge double digits for this wonderful sandwich, they can have at it — all we ask is that they please don’t skimp on the fixings like they do at places like La Esquina. A torta should weigh roughly the amount of Infinite Jest (paperback is fine), and you should be completely covered in it after just a few bites. Let’s just all agree on that right here, right now.
The Torta [Details]