The Other Critics

Bruni Considers Savoy Deeply Pleasant, Freeman and Sutton Are ‘Eh’ About Table 8

Frank Bruni is the latest to weigh in on Soho institution Savoy, which holds on to its two stars. Its “leafy, principled menu now seems less a breath of fresh cooking than the default setting of the urban bistro,” but “it remains an attention-worthy restaurant, on account of how deeply pleasant an afternoon or evening here can be.” [NYT]

Like our man Platt, Danyelle Freeman isn’t feeling the love at Table 8: “Unfortunately, the portions are really small at Table 8 and, too often, so are the flavors.” [NYDN]
Related: What You’ll Eat at Table 8

Ryan Sutton’s feelings are mixed about Table 8: “It serves food that approaches three-star quality in a tight, one-star environment.” But ultimately, “[t]his is an inauspicious New York debut for Chef Govind Armstrong and his estimable California cuisine.” Meanwhile, he thinks Bradford Thompson’s burger is better at Bar Artisanal than at now-closed Lever House: “The blend of brisket, chuck and short rib is coarsely ground, giving it a loose, moist, fall-apart-in-the-mouth succulence.” [Bloomberg]
Related: First Look at Bar Artisanal, Now Open for Business

Jay Cheshes hands out praise for “Soho sleeper” Harbour, which “features food so often thrilling it’s easy to forgive the hermetic dining room’s many physical flaws.” [TONY]
Related: What to Eat at Harbour

Robert Sietsema also reviews Harbour this week, enjoying the “painstaking compositions” on the sustainable menu, but worrying about its future: “In a city that craves big servings of plainly prepared seafood, isn’t Harbour swimming upstream?” [VV]

Gael Greene is mostly taken with “sleek and elegant and expensive” Marea. Still, “I have to believe the chef is as wild about pasta as we are but portions are smallish … too small priced as they are from $18 to $26.” [Insatiable Critic]
Related: What to Eat at Marea

Alan Richman ditches the pizza beat for a taste of Brooklyn Flea’s offerings, and he’s a big fan: “I pretty much loved everything I tried at the Brooklyn Flea, and I ate a lot.” Unsurprisingly, “the most enjoyable food came from the three Red Hook stands that have set up shop there.” [Forked/GQ]
Related: Edible Schoolyard

Bruni Considers Savoy Deeply Pleasant, Freeman and Sutton Are ‘Eh’