In Tuesday’s New York Times Critic’s Notebook, Frank Bruni confesses his love for…wait for it…pork rinds. Of course, this comes as no surprise when the rinds in question are none other than the Espelette pepper and cheddar dusted nibbles found on The Publican’s communal table.
Besides praising chef Paul Kahan’s snacky spin on pig, Bruni expounds on other aspects of the Fulton Market “Outstanding Newcomer” such as “discernibly high standards for ingredients” and an atmosphere that is jovial and pub-like, catering to a sensibility of “engaged diners” in search of “great eating in foodstuffs and settings that don’t shout their sophistication.”
In a Third Act, Pig Is the Star [New York Times]
– Hanna Andrews