The Other Critics

Bruni Can’t Take Fishtail Seriously; Yankees Lose With Stadium Food

At Fishtail by David Burke, Frank Bruni finds a few dishes to like but a general distaste for vibe: “While several lines of type on the restaurant’s elaborately segmented, deeply fatiguing menu trumpet its commitment to sustainable seafood, there’s at least as high a premium on silliness, and exuberance is everything.” [NYT]
Related: Inside Fishtail by David Burke

Ryan Sutton excoriates the Johnny Rockets burger he ate at Yankee Stadium — “The rubbery, incinerated meat tasted as if it had been sitting under a heat lamp for 30 minutes” — and doesn’t care for much of the other food options there either. [Bloomberg]
Related: What to Eat at Yankee Stadium

At Bouley, Gael Greene “admire[s] some of what I ate more than I relish it. Too much seems so soft, a miasma of cosmic essences. Baby food for a very rich baby.” [Insatiable Critic]

Like Adam Platt, Danyelle Freeman visits Harbour this week and likes many of the dishes, but notes an excess of foam and inconsistent dishes — “there’s a few too many highs and lows here.” [NYDN]

Alan Richman writes a cranky love letter to Celeste: “Celeste is not exactly great, but it is a wonderful trattoria, one of my favorite places to eat in New York and the first place I send visitors from out-of-town who aren’t looking for three-star dining.” [Forked/GQ]

Jay Cheshes eats at Scuderia and Da Silvano. The former “exudes easy, youthful charm,” but it’s a neighborhood joint more than a draw. Da Silvano, however, “is a restaurant still in search of its soul.” [TONY]
Related: A First Look at Scuderia

Andrea Thompson has a satisfying, if stuffing, experience at Shang. “The fact that most of what arrived was delicious became a double-edged sword,” she writes. “It took an iron will to try to save room.” [NYer]
Related: A Closer Look at Shang, and Its Menu

Bruni Can’t Take Fishtail Seriously; Yankees Lose With Stadium Food