The Other Critics

Bruni’s L’Artusi Improvement Plan; La Superior Delights Sietsema

Frank Bruni suggests a way for L’Artusi to improve its one-star rating: “If they turned a more skeptical eye to some of [Gabe] Thompson’s inventions, edited the menu to about two-thirds its current length and focused harder on the execution of what remained, they’d have an excellent restaurant.” [NYT]

L’Artusi’s décor has an identity crisis, complains Shauna Lyon, who likes many of the “pleasing crudos” and “sublimely rustic pasta.” [NYer]

“What La Superior lacks in interior design, it makes up for in good food,” says Robert Sietsema, who wishes everything were just a little spicier. [VV]

Danyelle Freeman is impressed by La Fonda del Sol’s back room, “where you can really sense [Josh] DeChellis’s talents.” The front room was uneven, but she still proffers four out of five stars. [NYDN]
Related: A First Look at La Fonda Del Sol

Ken Friedman’s “psychedelic seafood shack” is a cover for “a far more serious restaurant,” writes Jay Cheshes, declaring the John Dory “the best new restaurant I’ve visited so far this year.” [TONY]
Related: John Dory Bartender Alexis Sarandon Catches Customers Staring

After the critics have passed through and the shine of newness dulls, Steve Cuozzo returns to Corton and finds it “even better than it was last fall.” [NYP]
Related: Corton’s Menu, Illustrated

Ryan Sutton pits Anthos against Kefi: “It’s like coach class vs. business. Kefi might be cheap, but in truth, Anthos is the better value. And the airline metaphor is appropriate because Kefi is as customer-friendly as steerage.” [Bloomberg]
Related: Kefi’s Menu, Illustrated

Gael Greene wakes the Oak Room and finds the food fine but the atmosphere musty. [Insatiable Critic]

Bruni’s L’Artusi Improvement Plan; La Superior Delights Sietsema