• Pat Bruno visits Gaylord India for this week’s review, and oh my god, we are trying so incredibly hard to be mature about this. The man opens his column with “My comfort level with the food at Gaylord India has always been high” and it is really hard not to crack a joke right here. Oh, and the food’s really good there — despite the S-T’s categorization of it as “American,” it’s solid Indian fare.
• But it’s a twofer, with Bruno hitting up a very Bruno-esque joint, Club Lago — an old-school Italian supper club where the atmosphere is fantastic but the food falls woefully short. Bruno accuses the kitchen of becoming “complacent” — a low blow from the usually effusive reviewer.
• Meanwhile, over at the Reader, Mike Sula works his usual verbal magic with a piece that’s half profile of D’Candela Restaurant (4053 N. Kedzie, (773) 478-0819), and half love letter to Peruvian food. Sula takes us through the process of D’Candela’s owner, Luis Garcia, as he puts together a menu that highlights the best that this proto-fusion ethnic cuisine has to offer. Comforting lomo saltado, everything-but-the-kitchen-sink soups, and of course the famous Peruvian pollo a la brasa. Our mouth waters at the very thought.
[Photo: dan perry/Flickr]