Franki Bruni’s one-star endorsement of the Oak Room: “I’d recommend the Oak Room for anyone intent on an inimitable atmosphere and a baronial sense of splurge and who is willing to risk a forgettable, or even frustrating, meal.” [NYT]
Ryan Sutton is not moved by Shang, though his wallet is: “And for the most part, there’s nothing really wrong with the food, but alas, Shang is about as exciting as Canadian rocker Bryan Adams.” [Bloomberg]
Related: A First Look at Shang
Susur Lee “is a really good cook who’s too clever for his own good sometimes,” Danyelle Freeman assesses. “Too many dishes on this menu taste like cleverness.” [NYDN]
At Co., Allen Richman finds little to criticize but “occasional wrongheaded harmonizing of toppings.” But Motorino’s Margherita DOC “is a soggy mess.” [Forked/GQ]
Related: A First Look at Co.
The Pizza Speaks With a Belgian Accent at Motorino