The Other Critics

Bruni Wants More From Cabrito; Cuozzo Defends At Vermilion

Cabrito’s inconsistencies baffle Frank Bruni and result in a one-star review for a place whose “porky preoccupations” he loved — when it was good. [NYT]

Ryan Sutton thinks most people go to Macao Trading Co. “for the scenery,” not the food: “The place is basically a tarted-up takeout joint, which is to say the choices are endless — and pointless.” [Bloomberg]
Related: Inside Macao Trading Co.

Steve Cuozzo throws some love to Shang, Rouge Tomate, and At Vermilion, three restaurants he believes “offer adventure for a relative pittance.” [NYP]

Skip the fish at Buttermilk Channel, advises Danyelle Freeman, but enjoy the rest of the menu: “This is where you see the subtlety of making familiar foods with superior ingredients and a little imagination.” [NYDN]
Related: A Closer Look at Buttermilk Channel

“Though there are commendable dishes coming out of the kitchen,” writes Jay Cheshes of Salumeria Rosi, “the artisanal meats … are probably the best reason to visit.” [TONY]

Gael Greene gives Corton another shot, and likes it better this time. “Liebrandt is getting more right more of the time,” she concedes. [Insatiable Critic]
Related: Corton’s Menu, Illustrated

Alan Richman calls the food at Vinegar Hill House uneven, but that doesn’t make it a bad place for dinner. “Inasmuch as there is no other restaurant in Vinegar Hill,” he writes, “locals might be grateful enough for its presence to fill it up.” [Forked/GQ]

Andrea Thompson liked Braeburn well enough, but didn’t find it memorable. [NYer]

Out in Elmhurst, Robert Sietsema swoons over Ayada: “I’d just returned, at least figuratively, to Thailand’s glittering capital and been amazed at the variety and richness of the cooking.” [VV]

Bruni Wants More From Cabrito; Cuozzo Defends At Vermilion