NYC Food Guy, a man whose palate is almost as impressive as his card tricks, has embarked on the daunting mission of separating the good, the bad, and the ugly among New York’s hot wings. We’ll tell him what the very worst ones are: the sad happy-hour freebies at El Cantinero. Not that we’ve ever complained. But this list seeks to transcend mere smashedication (blindly chewing while you’re wasted) by attempting to find wings that rise to the level of Dinosaur Bar-B-Que’s. So far, the only contenders are the ones at Blind Tiger: “What they lack in size, they make up for in fall off the bone tenderness, the result of a baked then grilled cooking process.” We’ll stay tuned to see whether anyone actually bests Dinosaur — maybe Blue Ribbon? Or, if you’ll allow us to get unconventional — the truly amazing glazed (not hot) wings stuffed with sticky rice and Chinese sausage at Chinatown hole-in-the-wall Rainbow Café (154 Mott St., nr. Grand St.; 212-343-7083). Any other suggestions?