Frank Bruni is weary of downtown restaurants “that honor Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm,” and Braeburn tries his patience. Chef Brian Bistrong presents “an earnestness that’s palpable, often pleasurable, and also a little dull.” [NYT]
The charcuterie at 10 Downing compensates for the restaurant’s noise level and navigational challenges. Chef Jason Neroni’s “approach is to simplify a classic, take it apart, isolate it. By doing so, he gives it a new clarity,” writes Danyelle Freeman. [NYDN]
Ryan Sutton sums up the Oak Room: “After an elaborate renovation, the restaurant still charges exorbitant sums for uninspired food.” But you should still get a drink at the bar. [Bloomberg]
Gael Greene expects little from Rouge Tomate and is annoyed by the whole health-food premise. “It takes a few minutes to notice that the food is mostly good; indeed, very good,” she concedes. [Insatiable Critic]
Motorino “is really just a goosed-up neighborhood pizza parlor,” says Robert Sietsema, though the pies are “lush and shareable.” [VV]
