Among the six courses served last night at a James Beard House dinner by Miami chef Michael Schwartz of Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink, it was the honeycomb and La Tur cheese that prompted the most enthusiasm. Schwartz, who opened his restaurant in 2006 in the underfed Design District, has been lauded by no less than Frank Bruni and John Mariani, and even landed on the Heeb 100. His message of locally sourced, sustainable food sources may be familiar to New Yorkers, but the food was not, especially a pan-roasted golden tilefish. It was the La Tur cheese, Paradise Farms honeycomb, aged balsamic, and grilled walnut raisin bread (unjustly shown here) that best represented Schwartz’s food aesthetic. The dish looked beautiful and tasted wonderful — simple and wholesome and a joy to eat. If you’re headed to Miami for Art Basel next month or South Beach Wine & Food in February, book a table at Michael’s. You know what to order. For those of us stuck up here, we beg New York chefs: Steal this dish.
Michael Schwartz’s honeycomb showstopper. Photo: Aileen Gallagher