The Other Critics

Market Table Perfect for Winter; Corton Praise Piles On

Market Table will continue to thrive throughout the winter, says Frank Bruni, because it is “a comfy wool blanket, emphasizing good sense over high style.” [NYT]

Moira Hodges adds to the pile of enthusiasm about Corton: “The meals I had at Corton were extraordinary, putting [Paul Liebrandt] in a realm with the city’s greatest chefs.” [NYO]

Steve Cuozzo praises “almost every dish” at Café Boulud, where Gavin Kaysen “strikes a balance between classicism and innovation, tilting the meter toward the latter with delicious results.” [NYP]

A Voce’s formidable founding chef has been replaced by Missy Robbins of Chicago, but Jay Cheshes isn’t sure any diners have “even noticed the change.” Her cooking compensates for the crowd, the noise level, and the slow service. [TONY]

Secession is David Bouley’s restaurant, asserts Danyelle Freeman. The menu is vast, but “it’s almost impossible to go completely astray.” [NYDN]

Alan Richman has long been suspicious of boneless, rolled-up pig, but is convinced by East Village sandwich shop Porchetta. The porchetta plate there is “possibly the best under-$15 serving of food in Manhattan,” he writes. [Forked/GQ]
Earlier: Underground Gourmet Gives Porchetta Four Stars [NYM]

Gael Greene admits to getting a “diva-in-the-house welcome” at the new Salumeria Rosi, but predicts it’ll become a popular, quality neighborhood joint. [Insatiable Critic]

Ryan Sutton fears a pork-induced fatality after eating at Irving Mill, but even after complimenting Ryan Skeen’s skills still recommends the burger and a beer as the go-to meal. [Bloomberg]

Shauna Lyon reports a mixed bag at Allegretti, praising the braised short ribs and other entrées but complaining that “other dishes, though, faltered in their unnecessarily complicated execution.” [NYer]

MaiThai in Sunset Park may be a sign of “a threat to the hegemony of Queens Thais,” reports Robert Sietsema. [VV]

Market Table Perfect for Winter; Corton Praise Piles On