Sun-Times Reviews: We Are Growing Impatient

The upside of today’s Sun-Times dining section is that every single one of the two links from the main page works.

The downside is that we are growing increasingly agitated by the S-T’s apparently inane editorial policy of accepting reviews that are based on only one visit to a restaurant. Our boy Witom has dinner at a restaurant along with one companion. After describing their two apps, two entrees, and two desserts, he spends the copious leftover space reiterating the menu more or less verbatim (which, for the record, is in this case the “summer menu,” and hello it is currently September).

Say what we will about Steve Dolinksy, he draws the line between amateurs and real reviewers by saying “most of the big time critics will visit at least twice, if not three times, before they’ll print a review.” So either the team at the Sun-Times is the ill-advised exception implied by Dolinsky’s use of “most,” or Bruno et al aren’t “big time critics.” Ahem.

• Thomas Witom’s interminable tour of suburban bistros continues, this week at Jerry’s Restaurant (505 Chestnut, Winnetka,847 441 0134). Witom’s review reads like a checklist: Decor? Muted and anonymously upscale (check!). Appetizers? Lobster risotto (check!), something involving buffalo mozzrella (check!), soup in a shot glass (check! cringe! time machine to 2003!). Nothing bad to say about the entrees, though we also don’t get too much detail beyond what a menu might tell us. But hey! Be sure to check out this crazy culinary trend: “Looking for a variety of tastes? Ask the server about ordering ‘small plates’ for sharing.” Intriguing! Cutting-edge! Can it last? This might be too much for us. [Witom, Sun-Times]

• Bruno heads to Texas de Brazil, leading us to bring out our Oh My God How Many Brazilian Steakhouse Reviews Can We Read Before Going Insane list. We read the review, and have not yet (that we can tell) lost our sanity, so tally duly added. The usual oohing and aahing over the depth and breadth of the “salad bar,” which is to salad what Whole Foods is to a loaf of bread. Here is a sentence that we entirely fail to parse:

As it goes with the picanha, and many of the cuts of beef here, there is a salty edge to the flavor (at the outset, the gaucho/waiter explains the salting or less salting process, so you get to choose a bit of that process, which is good), and this also sets Texas de Brazil apart from other churrascarias I have tried.

We will buy a slice of Ian’s mac & cheese for whoever tells us what the hell Bruno is trying to say here. [Bruno, Sun-Times]

[Photo: An entree at Jerry’s, via the restaurant’s official site]


Sun-Times Reviews: We Are Growing Impatient