The Other Critics

Matsugen Racks Up Raves; Persimmon Brought Down to Earth

In case you were wondering if Persimmon really is comparable to Momofuku Ko, here is Frank Bruni’s answer: No. But it is cheap, and some dishes “riveted” him. [NYT]
Related: Kimchic [NYM]

Danyelle Freeman goes for Matsugen in a big way, granting the soba temple five stars (out of six) and calling it “an expensive restaurant that serves exquisite food for peasants.” [NYDN]

Matsugen gets five stars from Jay Cheshes, too, who goes a little further in trying to convey why cold buckwheat noodles are worth five stars: When mixed with condiments, “it all melts into a sweet, salty, silky symphony.” [TONY]

Marc Forgione is a chip off the old block, decides Paul Adams, who loved his father’s cooking and finds the son’s work at Forge to be cast in a similar vein. [NYS]

Robert Sietsama finds Keur Mame Diarra, a Senegalese place in Harlem. And hates it! No, just kidding. Of course he likes it; in fact, he makes the place sound pretty appetizing. [VV]

Village Thai newcomer Rhong-Tiam earns a “meh” review from Andrea Thompson. The bottom line: It’s no Sripraphai. [NYer]

Alan Richman, with his memories of the Automat, is naturally drawn to conveyor-belt sushi restaurants, and his verdict on two of them is decisive: “Sakae Sushi was a disaster, but East Japanese Restaurant is fine.” Okay? [Forked/GQ]

Matsugen Racks Up Raves; Persimmon Brought Down to Earth