So this Sunday’s Inky featured a Center City-centric restaurant review blitz, including one by Rick Nichols (dude, do more of them. please?).
“Grandeur does not quite describe it. The space has enough old wood and occasional crannies to give it claim to intimacy. During its incarnation as Odeon, my wife and I would order flutes of champagne and a magnificent sauteed crab cake ($3.50) with lemon - or was it lime? - butter, and sit at one of the cafe tables tucked on either side of the entry. “Did we only do that once?” she asked the other night, waiting for our blackened cod po’ boy (bad bread!), and nicely roasted Chilean sea bass with ginger rice.”
In case you haven’t figured it out, the restaurant was formerly the much-missed Odeon.
“I have mixed feelings about kiwi with fish, but Kim adds just a touch, using the pairing again with a raw yellowtail starter, which also gets spicy jalapeño chips and a sour splash of citrus ponzu to counter the heat. A simple little pine nut, and a miso-mustard sauce, are all he needs to transform an appetizer of seared tuna tataki into something memorable, the oil of the nut drawing extra sweetness from the fish.”