
Florent Morellet helped to create the meatpacking district, a neighborhood of which he is considered the unofficial mayor (or, as he prefers it, queen). Now that his blessedly nocturnal, egalitarian, rollicking restaurant, Florent, is preparing to close its doors, David Amsden paints a portrait of a surprisingly realistic, unsentimental man looking back at the changes he helped bring about — the very changes which have now engineered his exile. A classic New York profile.