The only problem? The paper’s reviews read like they were written for people who had never stumbled into an Applebee’s, Bertucci’s or Red Lobster in their entire life. Except for a select demographic of 10,000 or so people who live on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, we’d say everyone reading the paper has eaten at one of these restaurants at one time or another.
But we read on and discovered something: The Timesers liked the chain restaurant! Even if they wrote about them condescendingly:
“Surprisingly decent” was the consensus among nine reviewers who visited chain restaurants in the suburbs around New York City. They peeled back Bloomin’ Onions, meditated on Zen chicken pot stickers and attempted to ignore the calorie count of an “appetizer” that included Buffalo wings, fried mozzarella and stuffed potato skins.