And we’re aware that by using “Southern Comfort” in the headline, we just committed journalistic cliche atrocity…
The new Southern fried incarnation of Marigold Kitchen was the proud recipient of the Craig LaB treatment this week. We’ve covered their goings-on before, but suffice to say they do an amazing modern incarnation of southern American cooking. What chef Erin O’Shea does over there is similar to what you’ll find in high-end restaurants in, among others, Charleston and Savannah — and can’t even really be found in NYC for chrissakes.
Tell us this doesn’t sound awesome:
Mashed sweet potatoes come tucked inside mustard-scented pasta raviolis over peppery mustard greens scattered with crisp fried okra. Smoky trout salad mounded in the center of a bowl mingles with a silky puree of asparagus soup poured tableside. Bright buttermilk vinaigrette and fried green tomatoes add a vivacious spark to olive oil-poached salmon touched with a whiff of mesquite smoke.
And great cured sausage from Surry County, Va., lends just the right switch of country swagger to a sophisticated roulade of chicken stuffed with pears and cornbread. Paper-thin shavings of velvety Wigwam ham add a salty luster to the sweet cornbread pedastal topped with creamy collards and a sunnyside-up egg which, when broken, becomes a sunny sauce.
[Photo: Michael Bryant/Inky]