If being the subject of a New Yorker profile (or an Esquire fashion spread) is not heady enough, how about an album named after your restaurant? Elvis Costello’s upcoming release is called Momofuku and may soon be on permanent rotation throughout the Chang empire. Now, it’s possible that the album is named after Momofuku Ando, the inventor of instant ramen noodles. Or that Costello is using “momofuku” in its original Japanese sense of “lucky peach.” (If the cover looks like the Allmans’ Eat a Peach, we’ll know for sure.) We propose another motive: Like everybody else, Costello is desperately trying to get a reservation at Momofuku Ko.
David Chang’s armies are here to stay… Photo: Getty Images