Yesterday’s Sun-Times article about precocious children at restaurants was a harbinger of things to come in today’s Tribune “At Play” section, devoted entirely to the little dears. You know why people are thinking about kids right now? Because spring is here, and with it rebirth, youth, vitality, and so forth. Ick.
What’s worth highlighting is some official ugliness on the part of LEYE. Vettel writes:
And despite the ocean-friendly manifesto written in the menu, you’ll find swordfish and Chilean sea bass (which some experts decry as overfished no-no’s) available from time to time. (Bonner explains that these fish – indeed, all his fish – come from purveyors committed to sustainable harvesting practices.)
That’s all well and good, but when you have an endangered fish, you can’t sustainably harvest it anywhere. Because when it’s legal to catch, say, 100 Caspian belugas for caviar, 1000 are going to end up on the market. And it’s hard to tell a legal fish from an illegal one. “Sustainable” fishing is not like sustainable crops, sorry.
There’s also a piece on good kids’ menus around the city, and a list of maybe a dozen kids’ favorite restaurants, reinforcing our notion that children, despite their occasionally uncanny perceptive abilities, have terrible taste.
On to Time Out Chicago! We’re still getting used to their site redesign, which they currently have branded as “beta.” It’s fine, we guess, but it needs spiffier fonts.
If you like local musicians, Heather Shouse has a round-up of where they eat when they’re in town. Heather also goes to Sixteen in the Trump hotel, and reports back exactly what we imagined she would: you’re paying for the view, and the food is good but not great. Style over substance, and “expensive” masquerading as “chic” - the Trump ethos, in a nutshell.
But the big story is a whole bunch of Top Chef spoilers! Since the TOC people are reporters, they paid attention to the filming of the season in the past few months, and have much to reveal, apparently. Apparently, because we don’t want to ruin our viewing! But here they are, if your senses of mystery and wonderment are shriveled and dead.
Final note: Shouse is also at Cafe Marbella, a tapas place in Albany Park that Monica Eng fancies as well. It’s a very nice review, but what’s odd is that it’s filed under “Save This Restaurant,” and it only opened last month! Although it’s no different in principle from a NICU, is it.
[Photo: okay, a fishing rod. No bottom trawler silhouette available? LEYE]