Esquire has long been our favorite dude magazine. Two of our top nonfiction writers (AJ Jacobs and Chuck Klosterman) appear on the masthead and the fiction section is pretty great. We rarely buy it, but we’re always pretty pumped to see it in a waiting room. The neatest thing about Esquire, to our food-obsessed mind at least, are the food articles, which are written by the very distinguished critic John Mariani. His reviews are sophisticated, clever, and articulate. Our esteem for Mariani has only grown now that we’ve seen Esquire’s list of the best new restaurants of 2007. Two San Francisco restaurants made the list, tying this fair city (along with Washington, D.C., Boston, and Atlanta) for the second highest number of restaurants to make the list (predictably, New York came first). Awesome!
So, which new restaurants made Esquire’s list? Cafe Majestic and Lark Creek Steak. Mariani gives Cafe Majestic especially high praise, using the word “perfect” twice (in reference to both the drinks from bartender Michael Keady and the sweetness of the Dungeness crab salad). His fondness for Lark Creek Steak seems to be strongly influenced by the restaurant’s unlikely location in the Westfield Mall and the incongruous nature of finding a “first-rate twenty-first-century chophouse, with more than just good meat on the menu and a room easy on the testosterone” in such a place.
Do you agree with Mariani that these are the city’s two best new restaurants? Leave your thoughts in the comments.