Ida’s chef and co-owner, Mary Kate McCaughey, always knew she wanted a “bruncherie” because of the sense of community that morning meal taps. And she’s a local, having grown up in Port Richmond and Fishtown, where as a girl she used to buy penny candy at the grocery Ida’s eventually replaced. That corner space, most recently a coffee shop, was transformed by Mary Kate’s husband, Feargus McCaughey, into a charmingly cozy cafe, with a bustling counterside grill in front, and a rear dining room that feels like a well-kept parlor, with stained-glass windows, wooden banquettes, arty photos, and granite cafe tables.[…]The fluffy buttermilk pancakes, made with a recipe from Feargus’ mom, were all the better with blueberries. And in addition to the authentic meats on the hearty Irish breakfast - the rasher bacon and banger sausage - the soft soda and potato breads were griddled fresh by Feargus, once a baker’s apprentice in Belfast.McCaughey, who has also cooked at Standard Tap and Royal Tavern, doesn’t limit her inspiration to Ireland. She turned out a tasty parmesan from grilled chunks of heirloom eggplants grown in Lancaster. Her “black Russian,” a cornucopia of fresh sprouts and veggies gratineed beneath Swiss over toasted pumpernickel, is an homage to her Silk City days. McCaughey also makes an excelente huevos rancheros over house-fried tortilla chips, good black beans, and tangy tomatillo salsa streaked with avocado coulis.I doubt many expected anything streaked with coulis to fly in Fishtown, a traditionally blue-collar neighborhood weaned on the $1.75 breakfast special. But the gentrifying mood has embraced the notion that better ingredients cooked with care could be worth $5 to $10 a plate, for breakfast or lunch.