Silk City’s menu is definitely dineresque – hanger steak, meat loaf, grilled cheese and tomato – but the place doesn’t feel like it’s trying too hard to be cheeky or retro-chic. The food is interesting, flavorful, and unpretentious, not to mention served in inexpensive, obnoxiously large portions. This is an accomplishment for a kitchen that’s been a veritable Maury show. North 3rd chef Peter Dunmire helmed the ship until Bee hired David Katz, but Katz left within weeks after issues with menu alterations, and in a recent interview, called Silk City “Applebee’s,” in so many words. This all went down the very week I ate at Silk City, and Dunmire has since returned to re-re-focus the kitchen. According to Bee, I sampled a little of both chefs’ menus, and though these guys got menu-mama-drama, my yummy meal hardly tasted like sour grapes.
Menumamadrama? Man, that’s our new favorite word for the week.