In a city filled (no, positively saturated) with Italian BYOBs, Modo Mio has been a hot ticket for more than a year. Maybe it’s the novelty of the location, on a rapidly gentrifying strip of Girard Avenue? Maybe it’s the pan-Italian menu that avoids all traces of Italian-American red saucery? Or the complementary Umbrian bread served with olive oil and ricotta cheese? Either way, it’s popular and Craig LaBan seems to dig it:
As the name Modo Mio (“My Way”) implies, McAndrews delivers personalized takes on traditional Italian ideas. Homemade ravioli pouches plumped with pureed artichoke and mascarpone (actually agnolotti) shine with sage-infused brown butter and toasted almonds. Crisply “panelle” squares of creamy-centered chickpea cakes lie beneath shrimp sauteed with a zesty sweet-and-sour pepper relish. Sweet little scallops tumble with crumbled sausage over linguine in a carbonara-style froth enriched with yolks and pecorino cheese.
[Image via Philadelphia Inquirer]