This bowl of spaghetti Arrabiata (spicy tomato sauce with kalamata olives, garlic, capers and anchovies) is $11 at Adesso, and lends credence to the notion that simplest is best. This is not a high-art creation or anything, but instead, the basic flavors that make Mediterranean food so enjoyable, served freshly. We know it’s not “classico” or whatever to grate that much cheese on a pasta, but who can blame them? When we’re in Italy, we won’t press for extra cheese, but in Chicago, we do what tastes good. And in the summer, this is exactly what tastes good. Mangia!