Somewhere in the world there may be a train line that covers more gastronomic territory than the B and V subway lines, which start in southernmost Brooklyn and end deep in Queens, but if there is, we don’t know about it. For the next twenty-odd weeks, we’ll be riding the B and V from Coney Island all the way to Forest Hills, jumping off frequently to rave about our favorite restaurants and food stores near the subway.
This week: Kings Highway
Kings Highway is not a highway as we know it. It’s a two-lane road lined with trees and wireless stores. As you descend from the B and start walking south, you may find yourself lulled slightly by the tranquillity. You’ll find a Sleepy’s on the corner of Coney Island Avenue. There, take a right. Potent Turkish coffee and what is far and away the best baklava you’ve ever eaten await you at Güllüoglu.
Güllüoglu’s home branch is in Gaziantep, the pistachio capital of Turkey, and the bright, vivid nuts are as lively on the palate as pop rocks. What’s significant about Güllüoglu’s baklava and other products is neither the exquisitely flaky phyllo nor the supersaturated mouthfeel of fine Turkish butter, but the shocking absence of any sticky-sweet elements. Inside the bright, wood-framed restaurant, you’ll be able to eat one $5 dessert after another. Chase it with the jet fuel that is Turkish coffee and you’ll take the stairs back to the B platform three at a time.