Digesting The Reviews: More Absinthe, Please

When it comes to Absinthe, some things just don’t get the attention they deserve. Yes, the cocktails are “some of the best in the city.” Yes, the bar-centric brasserie is known for its fries and oysters. Yes, Chef Jamie Lauren (a 2005 Chronicle Rising Star) is still settling into her new digs in the kitchen. Yes, the menu is a work in progress.

But my, how Absinthe has improved under Lauren’s watch:

While the evolution of the menu takes time, it’s starting to reflect her talent for clean, eclectic California/Mediterranean flavors. A good example is the scallop crudo ($14). She arranges the raw coins of seafood over a thick swipe of sweet pea puree, and adds bright orange dollops of tobiko, tiny micro herbs including purple basil, and a julienne of lemon peel.The chef dresses up the traditional cream of celery root soup ($8) with a crisscross of beet puree and mustard oil, and her take on the classic French frisee salad ($10) includes the super smoky Benton’s bacon, whole pencil-size lengths of poached baby leeks and a caviar-topped duck egg with a runny center. When broken, the yolk flows over the greens and adds a rich flavor and texture to the blend.

When it comes to Absinthe, some things just don’t get the attention they deserve. Yes, the cocktails are “some of the best in the city.” Yes, the bar-centric brasserie is known for its fries and oysters. Yes, Chef Jamie Lauren (a 2005 Chronicle Rising Star) is still settling into her new digs in the kitchen. Yes, the menu is a work in progress.

But my, how Absinthe has improved under Lauren’s watch:

Digesting The Reviews: More Absinthe, Please