Sorry about that pretentious New Yorkerism (the umlaut), but we couldn’t help ourselves. Anwyay, Martha Bayne has the whole section to herself today, and writes about all things Bonsoiree, the recently repurposed New American in Bucktown. The restaurant has morphed from a deli/cafe into a fine dining destination, with its erstwhile underground invitation-only Saturday dinners, and its weeknight prix fixe and tastings menus.
For $25, the dinner menu sounds pretty reasonable. One could select a shaved English cucumber salad with Shimeiji mushrooms, toasted chestnuts and an orange flower vinaigrette st start, followed by sliced flank steak with heirloom tomato salsa, wasabi whipped potatoes, charred red onion sauce and chive coulis, and finished with their signature banana bread pudding and a shot of white chocolate crème Anglaise. If you start going nuts with the supplements (say, Kona kampachi tartare with chili sesame wonton and wasabi tobikko; herb marinated grilled lamb loin with their signature Spanish tortilla, haricot vert & cherry lamb jus; and a chocolate dome, vanilla crème and hazelnut), you can ratchet it up to $40. But still, for all that, not catastrophe. And they’re BYO! (with a $5 corkage fee)
[Photo: yummy, Bonsoiree]