The Other Critics

Hill Country Triumphs; Perilla Gets Measured Praise, Three Times Over

Peter Meehan hails Hill Country as the barbecue to beat in New York, at least as far as beef is concerned: “[The deckle brisket] is a thing of balance and of beauty.” [NYT]

As much as Meehan liked the place, Steve Cuozzo may like it even more, not hesitating to crown it New York’s best: “Lots of New York places now claim to have ‘real’ barbecue, and some truly do. But until they catch up with Hill Country, they’re just blowing smoke.” [NYP]

15 East feels the glow of two-star approval, especially for its star octopus. Ushiwakamaru, though not as good, is cheaper, and that’s worth something. [NYT]

Randall Lane wasn’t floored by any of Perilla’s main courses but was impressed by the experience as a whole. He closes by saying, “I’ve never seen Top Chef, but after eating at Perilla, I have reason to take the show’s name at face value.” [TONY]

Perilla doesn’t receive as much favor from Lauren Collins, who likes it well enough but doesn’t seem especially smitten: “[Chef Harold Dieterle] mostly pleases both the foodies and the fans.” [NYer]

Paul Adams, meanwhile, adds to the consensus that the place is rock solid in execution and even fairly creative: All in all, it’s got to be a good day for Harold Dieterle and his backers. [NYS]

Tiffin Wallah, Curry Hill’s Indian newbie, receives the Robert Sietsema seal of approval for its “genius” combination of three different regional vegetarian cuisines. [VV]

Alan Richman complains about the complexity of the menu at Insieme and gets his licks in on the much-debated lasagne, furthering the restaurant’s strangely mixed critical reception: Everybody loves the wine and some of the food and finds reason to mention that you can see Times Square through the curtains. [Bloomberg]

Hill Country Triumphs; Perilla Gets Measured Praise, Three Times Over