Opening: Vice (Or V.I.C.E.)

It’s Vice. Their menu says as much. All the people (Metromix, Centerstage, even ABC7Chicago) calling it V.I.C.E. are sadly mistaken, probably misled by a press release. We only bring this up because this name change, like all name changes, is meaningful.

It means that the lounge is repositioning itself from haute urban tackiness to sly, sophisticated tackiness. Eh, we guess we just have a bias against these clubs where cocktails start at $11. But were we able to afford to go to one, we could do worse than Vice. They have a forward thinking amouse bouche menu - we especially like how the dishes are garnished. For example, the Kumamoto oysters come with a champagne ice mignonette gelee and horseradish cream ($16 for six), while the Kobe steak and eggs comes on a brioche with balsamic vinegar and horseradish ($16 for four). On second thought, maybe we just like horseradish. Anyway, these amuses are only the beginning, because the real deal seems to be the caviar, which certainly qualifies as a vice these days. One ounce of Petrossian Royal Osetra will cost you $355; it was not so many years ago when you could pick up an ounce of Beluga for $45. Sigh. There’s the standard bottle service, of course, but you can also stick it to the man with a $4 MGD. Take that, $300 bottle of Grey Goose!

Vice [MenuPages]

[Photo: Petrossian Ossetra, LeVillage]

Opening: Vice (Or V.I.C.E.)