James Beard Awards, Round 2: Restaurants & Chefs

After yesterday’s crushing defeat in the media category, Chicago has emerged semi-triumphant, picking up what are, arguably, the two most important awards of the evening (plus a throwaway that Chicago couldn’t lose): Outstanding Restaurant and Outstanding Service. Given that Chicago’s performance on Sunday was 0-3, we are more than satisfied with 3-5. To the results, starting with our winners:

OUTSTANDING RESTAURANT AWARD

Frontera Grill

Chef/Owner: Rick and Deann Bayless

Chicago, IL

Our verdict: Ha! And it couldn’t have happened to a nicer guy. Condolences to the people at Spiaggia, who were also nominated for this category

OUTSTANDING SERVICE AWARD

Rick Tramonto, Gale Gand, and Richard Melman

TRU

Chicago, IL

Our verdict: The service ought to be good for the money, so it’s nice to know that it’s not just good, but the best. The competition in this category seemed fairly weak, though

BEST CHEF: GREAT LAKES

Grant Achatz

Alinea

Chicago, IL

Our verdict: This is sort of duh, and almost an insult. Maybe the Beard people are too conservative to give the big award to a mole-gas establishment. Local losers in this category include Naha and North Pond, which are lovely establishments but really don’t belong in the same category as Alinea

OUTSTANDING RESTAURATEUR AWARD

Thomas Keller

The French Laundry

Yountville, CA

Chicagoland nominee: Richard Melman, Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises

Our verdict: Keller may run one of the best restaurants in the world to near-infinite praise, but Melman will eat you alive

OUTSTANDING CHEF AWARD

Michel Richard

Michel Richard Citronelle

Washington, DC

Chicagoland nominees: Jean Joho of Everest and Paul Kahan of Blackbird

Our verdict: Yeah, whatever; we’re sure that this Michel is a good cook, but Chicago got two nominees. Bite us

RISING STAR CHEF OF THE YEAR

David Chang

Momofuku Noodle Bar

New York, NY

Chicagoland nominee: Graham Bowles, Avenues

Our verdict: There is little doubt in our mind that Bowles is a better chef than Chang. Two little noodles shops, however enjoyable, are no Avenues. But Chang’s a media darling, and this is a media event, so…

OUTSTANDING PASTRY CHEF AWARD

Michael Laskonis

Le Bernardin

New York, NY

Chicagoland nominee: Mindy Segal, Hot Chocolate

Our verdict: Le Bernardin is one of the top French restaurants in the country, and its sweet is as good as its savory. We’re sorry for Ms. Segal, but it was an honor to be nominated

OUTSTANDING WINE SERVICE AWARD

Mark Slater

Michel Richard Citronelle

Washington, DC

Chicagoland nominees: Brian Duncan, Bin 36

Our verdict: Okay, but the guy who’s serving the wine scares us a bit. Also, if Alpana Singh were still actively sommelier-ing, there would be no contest

Next year, we’ll sweep, for sure.

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James Beard Awards, Round 2: Restaurants & Chefs