This week, SF Weekly’s Meredith Brody braved the “noisy throng” at Salt House, the new(ish) restaurant on Mission and First. From the get-go, the influence of Town Hall (its sister restaurant) is evident, not to mention the “New Americanism” of the modern eatery:
Entering the place brings you right into the 21st century: This is urbane up-to-the-minute city dining, wittily inserted in an industrial space that once held a printing press (ah, times gone by). Its exposed brick, massive metal support beams, and wood floors still bearing evidence of the past now are complemented by wood tables, a long bar, and an entirely open kitchen. From that busy kitchen issues forth the kind of American cooking known as new, which means that on its menu you’ll see charmoula along with chickpeas (part of the house-made merguez sausage appetizer), Serrano ham adorning the crispy-shrimp starter, with spicy green beans and almonds, and Medjool dates and kumquats adorning the duo of foie gras. Not quite your grandmother’s kitchen.
Unfortunately, the “painfully loud” atmosphere and “slender plank” communal dining made the experience less than stellar. Throw in tough reservations and the bar crowd bulging into the tables–not to mention some slightly disappointing fare (“a bit stingy” foie gras and “sadly overcooked” English peas)–and Salt House isn’t exactly shooting to the top of our to-do lists. [SF Weekly]
The rest of the reviews, post jump.
Amanda Gold hits another Marin restaurant as she checks out El Paseo’s upscale yet nontraditional French menu, Paul Reidinger of the Guardian waxes poetic at Quixote’s Mexican Grill, L.E. Leone discovers cheap eats at a Cambodian joint in Oakland Chinatown called Phnom Penh, The Tablehopper hops on over to Tajine and the Chowhounds discuss the famous Cheese Board.
[Photo courtesy: Flickr ]
