The Other Critics

Morandi Takes Another Hit; a Haute Barnyard Spree

The Four Seasons gets perhaps the most negative two-star review in the history of the Times; Bruni seems to think the stars were grandfathered in. A telling example of how reputation floats reviews. [NYT]

Meehan, meanwhile, visits a chowhound’s paradise, a Hindu temple in Flushing. [NYT]

Morandi takes another blow, this time from Time Out’s Randall Lane, who like our own Adam Platt, finds it overdesigned and unimpressive, albeit with a few decent dishes. [TONY]
Related: Not So Bene [NYM]

Blakely Blackford (presumably filling in for Alan Richman, unless Richman has found an excellent new pen name) goes on an Haute Barnyard spree, eating at Cookshop and Blue Hill at Stone Barns. His rapturous descriptions of the wonderfully executed all-natural food, though, hardly break any new ground — both places have been covered as much as Paris Hilton. [Bloomberg]

Paul Adams adds a moderate but appreciative write-up to the good press E.U. is getting, noting the place’s struggles in the past and the skills of chef Akthar Nawab. [NYS]

Ryan Sutton does his usual routine of going to a restaurant, in this case twins Tasca and Central Kitchen, in their first weeks and then hammering them for imperfect food. [Bloomberg]

Centovini, the Houston Street wine bar, finds an unlikely fan in Sietsema, who praises the food, though he finds the wine too expensive. Centovini hasn’t had a lot of press, so they’re probably pleased. [VV]

The New Yorker grants Klee Brasserie a lukewarm assessment, despite major service problems and food that sounds about as exciting (in this piece, anyway) as an Andy Warhol movie. [NYer]

Amalia gets a major boost from Moira Hodgson, who devotes much of her space to lavishing the dishes with flattering descriptions. [NYO]

Morandi Takes Another Hit; a Haute Barnyard Spree