Review Revue: Sun-Times @ DeLaCosta and Sticky Rice

It turns out that we misinterpreted yesterday’s Sun-Times food news push as a replacement for today’s, when in fact, it was merely a harbinger of things to come. No fewer than ten new articles came out this morning, of which two concern us in this context, which is an analysis of the restaurants that the Sun-Times chose to review this week. Or more precisely, an analysis of the reviews themselves: first-order is all well and good, but second-order is where the fun starts. Ready?

Denise O’Neal is excited about the addition of a counter at pan-Latin hotspot DeLaCosta, in Streeterville. She loved the counter itself, which is a low-slung yard high, but also the food. The Counter, which has room for ten, will be doing monthly themed prix-fixe meals, starting with a tour of Spain for $65 (given the price of the Euro, this is a bargain). Also, there’s an option of a $32 wine pairing. One detail the report failed to mention is that The Counter is only open Monday-Wednesday, which means (to us) that it’s oriented toward the dining cognoscenti.

Lisa Donovan was rightly intrigued by the sign in the window of Sticky Rice advertising “Fried Worms.” We were surprised to learn, as we read the piece, that owner and chef Kritsana Moungkeow has been having so much trouble getting the worms (actually, bamboo caterpillars) from her L.A. supplier; after all, who’s heard of a bug shortage? When they’re available, though, people scarf them up, presumably along with the Khai Jiaw Khai Mod (Thai omelets with ant eggs) and Ka Nom Jeen Num Ngiaw (Pork and cubed pork blood cooked with curry and served with rice vermicelli). Take a moment to consider how the blood must first congeal to at least a gelatinous consistency before it can be cubed. And furthermore, that’s only the stuff on the English menu!

New kid on the block: The Counter at DeLaCosta [Sun-Times]

DeLaCosta [MenuPages]

DeLaCosta [Official Site]

Dish worms its way into patrons’ hearts at Sticky Rice [Sun-Times]

Sticky Rice [MenuPages]

Sticky Rice [Official Site]

[Photo: Project Gutenberg EBook of A Book of Natural History]


Review Revue: Sun-Times @ DeLaCosta and Sticky Rice