The Other Critics

Everybody Loves Sfoglia; Meehan Loves All BBQ

Bruni two-stars Sfoglia, the latest victory in a series for the Nantucket import, including nods from Adam Platt and Gael Greene in our Best of New York issue. The food is simple and rustic (frittatas, simple pastas), but it works for Bruni. Imagination can get you two stars, as the Ssäm Bar review showed last week, but so can execution, even if it isn’t very elaborate. [NYT]

Peter Meehan surveys nearly all the area’s BBQ restaurants, finding a lot to like: the pulled pork at Pies-N-Thighs and the burnt ends at RUB, to name two. Still, no revelations here. [NYT]

Sietsema hits up a Senegalese restaurant in Harlem: “Predictably, the dibi is awesome.” You said it, Bob! Has Sietsema ever met a foreign lamb dish he didn’t like? [VV]

Weird review of the House, which is brand-new: The owner is strange, the food so-so, but the room itself? “[S]o pleasant, I would happily spend an evening here with a screw-top jug of Wild Irish Rose and a stack of Kraft singles.” Let’s see what everyone else says once the kinks have been worked out. [TONY]

Bloomberg runs the first review of the Inn LW12, and it delivers what any gastropub can reasonably hope for: mild but earnest approval, and a few appetizing descriptions of dishes like the goat-cheese-stuffed lamb burger. [Bloomberg]

A formal Japanese kaiseki meal is a major undertaking, and Paul Adams is clearly impressed by the one at Rosanjin. But he ends the review saying that Sugiyama is better and cheaper by half. [NYS]

Everybody Loves Sfoglia; Meehan Loves All BBQ