Craig LaBan went to L’Oca in Fairmount this week. The Italian BYOB specializes in the same Northern Italian upscale fare that has been becoming more and more popular in American restaurants over the past few years. LaBan’s review, distilled to a few talking points?
1. L’Oca means “the goose”. Get the goose stew. It’s good (“tenderly braised meat cloaked in a tomato gravy that has an almost buttery richness.”)
2. Chef Luca Garutti, recently of Ristorante Panorama and La Locanda del Ghiottone, is a native of Lombardy. Lombardian specials like bagna cruda and mushroom/goose liver pate are good here.
3. The restaurant’s decor is “glassy corner bistro” and “casually sophisticated.”
4. The gnochetti (dumplings of semolina bechamel, with tiny bits of minced mushrooms, asparagus and prosciutto inside) are really, really good.
5. Like game? Try the venison.
6. Seriously, just try the gnochetti.
L’Oca [Philadelphia Inquirer]
[Photo: Philadelphia Inquirer]