The Other Critics

Yet Another Bagel for Kobe Club; Sietsema Visits American Restaurants!

Bruni hands Kobe Club the dreaded bagel, for many of the same reasons Adam Platt did: a tacky interior, wildly overpriced food, and an ill-conceived menu that doesn’t include great steak. [NYT]

Peter Meehan, meanwhile, discovers the joys of the diamond district’s kosher kebab house Taam Tov. [NYT]

Sietsema takes a break from celebrating Haitian hot pots to survey and grade the new burger joints: The result is detailed, thoughtful, and moderate. None score higher than a B+. [VV]

Moira Hodgson gives Dennis Foy two stars out of four, praising the restaurant’s “painterly” finesse and quiet atmosphere. It’s a tranquil oasis for wealthy people of refined taste. [NYO]

Writing about Hurapan Kitchen, Paul Adams summons enthusiasm for components of certain dishes but seems to find most of what he tried poorly executed. [NYS]

Varietal is overthought, overwrought, and way too high-concept, says Randall Lane, who notes that head chef Ed Witt and pastry guy Jordan Kahn seem to be “competing for who can produce the strangest dish.” [TONY]

A brief shout-out to Astoria’s Ovelia, for its skillfully executed Greek food and its swanky décor, which regularly draw Patricia Field and her entourage. Wait, to Astoria? Really? [TONY]
Related: New Astoria Greek Spot Grinds Its Own Sausage [Grub Street]

A mixed review for Biscuit Barbecue, but beware — the writer may not know anything about barbecue. [TONY]
Related: Biscuit Battles ChipShop [Grub Street]

Yet Another Bagel for Kobe Club; Sietsema Visits American Restaurants!