The Other Critics

Chodorow Sure to Be Pissed Over New ‘Times’ Steakhouse Review

This one is bound to kill Chodorow. Bruni visits a steakhouse even more vulgar than Kobe Club and awards it one star: Robert’s Steakhouse, inside the Penthouse Executive Club. Adam Perry Lang, as most recognize, is one of the city’s top meat guys. [NYT]

Meehan affirms that Kefi’s has terrific food at a bargain. He notes that it was strangely quiet the nights he was there, but that has changed, we’re told, since the Underground Gourmet gave the restaurant four stars. [NYT]

Think of this less as a review of Gilt than an excuse for Steve Cuozzo to acknowledge Chris Lee, one of the city’s most underappreciated chefs, whose ill fortune it was to follow Paul Liebrandt and his alienating high-concept cookery. [NYP]

Alan Richman gives Boqueria a very mixed review, comparing chef Seamus Mullen to a young Mario Batali while also describing the noise, prices, age level, and atmosphere in almost nightmarish terms. Like most reviewers, though, he’s still down to return. [Bloomberg]

Sietsema’s more enthusiastic about El Anzuelo Fino, a Peruvian seviche restaurant in Woodhaven, than he’s been in a while. [VV]

Unlike most of the other critics, who basically said that it was a well-executed snooze, Paul Adams seems genuinely excited about Dennis Foy, even while using words like “harmony” and “purity” in describing the food. [NYS]

It seems Moira Hodgson actually liked Varietal, despite being so conservative – and given that many, including Platt, found some of the food (in his words) “downright weird.” [NYO]

Few have written up Gramercy Tavern since new chef Michael Anthony took over. Randall Lane found flaws in the main room’s menu and a few minor service glitches. He also says that the more informal Tavern room is terrific, which is what we’ve been hearing. [TONY]
Related: Everything Topsy-Turvy at Gramercy Tavern [Grub Street]

Chodorow Sure to Be Pissed Over New ‘Times’ Steakhouse Review