The Other Critics

It’s Final: Ramsay’s Dull; March Gets Romantic

Bruni goes to Gordon Ramsay and finds common ground with everyone else, saying it’s well executed, flawless even — and totally uninspiring. Even the paint is dull! (Two stars.) [NYT]

In keeping with his recent interest in the international, Meehan visits a Romanian restaurant with garlicky spreads in Sunnyside. Still, despite the Sphinx, the place still doesn’t sound all that interesting. [NYT]

March reborn as Nish: It’s more romantic, thanks to more intimate seating, exotic ingredients, and dishes that “broadly evoked the cuisine of chef Gray Kunz: international spices used with local ingredients and French technique.” Who isn’t doing that these days? [Bloomberg]

Sietsema back in his element, reviewing an obscure Haitian restaurant near Brooklyn College. The boiled pork chunks fried in lard sound especially appealing. [VV]

Randall Lane delivers a somewhat confusing four-star (out of six) review of Dennis Foy. “His art is neither abstract nor concrete, his reputation neither sealed nor uncertain.” Come again? [TONY]

Bar Martignetti, meanwhile, is passable as a poor man’s Balthazar. [TONY]

Kate’s Brooklyn Joint, the new Williamsburg outpost of the Avenue B vegetarian restaurant, is unnattractive but has a few dishes worth eating — the unhealthiest ones on the menu. [TONY]

Restaurant Girl is the first to try E.U. under new chef Akhtar Nawab. It’s “random and inconsistent,” but with flashes of brilliance, as you might expect from a talented chef who has only been in a kitchen for a week or so. [Restaurant Girl]

It’s Final: Ramsay’s Dull; March Gets Romantic