User's Guide

Dona Is Dead, Long Live the Haute Greeks

Molyvos: Ready to take up the slack?Photo: Paul JohnsonThe news that Dona is closing Saturday has us in a dismal mood. Who knows how long it will be until chef Michael Psilakis is back behind his stove? In the meantime — or if you can’t score a reservation at Dona in the next couple of days — we suggest you sample the following dishes at these five remaining temples of Aegean cookery.

Parea’s dolmatas (stuffed grape leaves) with lobster and lemon egg sauce remain a major draw, as does the skate wing with house-cured pork. Finish your meal with their fried doughnuts and strong black coffee.

At Thalassa, chef Gregory Zapantis’s gigantic Tribeca restaurant, look for diver scallops wrapped in shredded phyllo with sheep’s-milk butter and a kalamata balsamic reduction.

Fish doesn’t come any fresher or more expensive than at Estiatorio Milos. Most of it comes grilled with lemon, olive oil, and sea salt; for $10 more, get the fish baked in sea salt for an even purer fish experience, without the woody charcoal flavor.

Tonight’s special at Snack Taverna: pan-seared scallops in spicy Avgolemono sauce with red peppers, kalamata olives, and a tomato fritter; and a whole roasted branzino with thyme, shallots, and lemon, served with potatoes and wilted greens.

At Molyvos you can always enjoy Jim Botsacos’s elevated moussaka, with its velvety spiced ground lamb and nutmeg-scented yogurt béchamel.

Dona Is Dead, Long Live the Haute Greeks