The Gobbler

Ms. Gobbler’s Turn: Her Favorite Restaurants

In pale imitation of great gastronome scribblers like Calvin Trillin and the late Johnny Apple, the Gobbler has written, perhaps too often, about his wife’s taste in food and restaurants (just read his last review). Possibly also like them (the Gobbler doesn’t know Mr. Trillin, but he met Apple during his gruff, un-cuddly, pre-foodie days), the Gobbler is often accused by his wife of egregiously distorting her views (you bet he does). Ms. Gobbler would like the world to know that her most-used word is not “yummy,” that if given the choice, she’d prefer to eat at home, and that her favorite drink really is champagne. “Also, you always make me sound elfin,” she told the Gobbler just a moment ago, “and I am not elfin.” In a hasty (and desperate) attempt to clarify the record, I’ve asked Ms Gobbler to list her current favorite restaurants in town. It goes without saying that Mr. Gobbler approves of these fine establishments, too.

Applewood. The room at this haute mom-and-pop establishment in Park Slope has a crackling fireplace and the cozy proportions that Ms. Gobbler admires. Also, when the Gobblers visited, the hostess-proprietor was carrying her newborn child around in what looked like a frontways papoose.

Aquavit. Marcus Samuelsson is a debonair chef, it’s true. But it’s the beautifully colored aquavits that get Ms. Gobbler every time.

Artisanal. “I don’t want to be all femme,” insists Ms. Gobbler, “I like speakeasies too.” It helps if said speakeasy provides customers with puffy cheese gougères and several varieties of Shelbourne blue.

Centovini. This new Italian wine bar’s room is an appendage of the chic Soho design store Moss. The chef is female, of course.

Cru. Ms. Gobbler’s No. 1 place for a really really fancy glass of wine, and also the current home of her most esteemed sommelier, Michel Couvreux, formerly of another perennial love, Le Bernardin.

Cafe Cluny. Ms. Gobbler’s favorite new spot for weekend brunch. Mr. Gobbler feels compelled to point out that there are fresh-cut flowers in the bathrooms and scented candles, too.

Dona. If Donatella Arpaia doesn’t know what a women likes, then who does? “The room’s clean and airy,” Ms. Gobbler says. “You feel like you’ve gone to California for lunch.”

Jean Georges. Ms. Gobbler: “I love that room, it’s just so elegant.” Translation: In the battle for megadate supremacy, Jean Georges is still king.

Falai. The current winner in the small room sweepstakes. Ms Gobbler always appreciates refined, though not overly precious food, uncluttered menus, and a place where you can have a conversation without having to shout.

’Wichcraft: At Ms. Gobbler’s (mostly female) architectural offices, the City Bakery is out and Tom Colicchio’s fast multiplying chain is in. Her favorite sandwich: frisée salad, lardons, and a soft-boiled egg on toast, for breakfast. — Adam Platt

Ms. Gobbler’s Turn: Her Favorite Restaurants