The Other Critics

Critics Keep Up the Steakhouse Shuffle; Ramsay Reviewed

Ramsay strikes a chord with Ryan Sutton: “This is artful food that makes you ponder the meaning of life, but it’s also accessible, gutsy fare that excites the senses and fills the tummy.” [Bloomberg]

Bruni does the ever-popular steak twofer (witness Platt’s double-up on STK and Lonesome Dove), declares Porter House New York “an M.B.A. program for beef eaters who did undergraduate work at Outback,” turning out “well-sourced, well-prepared flesh” though getting into trouble elsewhere. Despite the limolike seats, he’s not grooving to the beat (or the meat) at the other spot: “STK might want to think about buying some soundproofing, along with a vowel.” [NYT]

Richman isn’t convinced Porter House New York is a steakhouse, or at least as good of one as its predecessor V. Instead it’s “an accessible, sensible eating establishment with decent prices and classy, comprehensible food.” [Bloomberg]

Randall Lane begs to differ: “It’s not perfect, but Porter House is far more fun than V ever was — better food in a more attractive environment.” [TONY]

Even Texan Sietsema has to put in his two cents about Lonesome Dove, previously panned by Platt and just about everyone else. He’s all for buffalo corn dogs but doesn’t miss the kangaroo nachos or foie gras shooters, now off the menu. [VV]

Picking up Sietsema’s slack in the obscure-eateries department, Meehan treks out to Flushing to sample Korean pine-nut porridge: “It’s as bland as bland gets … And yes, that’s a good thing.” [NYT]

Izakaya Ten makes Paul Adams miss predecessor D’Or Ahn: “The new spot is fine and comfortable and, with its menu’s deft combination of classics and challenges, perhaps likelier to succeed commercially, but it’s unlikely to inspire the same level of feeling.” [NYS]

Moira Hodgson at Picholine: “If you can afford only one blowout meal in this season of excess, I urge you to try Picholine’s wild-game menu.” [NYO]

Augie deflates the Waverly Inn hype: “Believe people who say they had a great time and good food, stop in when you are hungry, but be suspicious of anybody using words like ‘incredible.’” [Augieland]

Restaurant Girl on Daniel Angerer’s Chelsea spot: “Klee Brasserie manages to be original, without being affected, a welcome comfort in the wake of the overly predictable bistro menus of late.” [Restaurant Girl]

E.U.: Worth the wait. [Strong Buzz]

Critics Keep Up the Steakhouse Shuffle; Ramsay Reviewed