Paul Meeriyagerd, the son of Thai House Express's owners, is the man behind it.
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Incidentally, the same space was once a legendary punk venue called The Deaf Club.
• Ms. Unterman adores the cardoon custard, the wine selection, and the "unusual, yet perfectly balanced" pasta dishes from Ristobar chef Angelo Auriana. Overall, she writes, "Everything works together and the place is so happening that everything stays fresh." [SF...