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You Bring the Booze; Micro Sushi Joint Brings the Sexy

Note to new sushi joints: Why not skip the cookie-cutter blonde-wood stuff and get hyphy with it, like the two-week-old Genji? Chef Miji, who rolled rice in Tokyo for 30 years, can now be found wiggling to dreamy, upbeat J-pop behind the three-seat bar of his new restaurant, which is situated on the upwardly mobile, far-east stretch of 14th Street. Miji’s offering up heaping servings of sweet, chilled uni from California; Botan, a jumbo Japanese shrimp that’s split into a slithery sashimi tail and a salty tempura head; and a delicate mash of rock shrimp, salmon, and cod paste. For those disinclined to try the seafood, there’s also yakitori skewers and soba and udon soups. Genji’s four-month struggle for a wine and sake license isn’t resolved yet, so BYO. —Daniel Maurer Genji Sushi, 424-A E. 14th St. at First Ave.; 212-388-1127