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Spring Vegetables Get the DeChellis Treatment at Sumile Sushi

Josh DeChellis’s Japanese-inspired cooking at Sumile Sushi is especially attuned to seasonality. Just look at tonight’s special, spring-vegetable sushi. Says DeChellis, “Spring’s first vegetables are so precious — just like the most prized fish of the sea — and deserve an equally simple preparation to highlight their annual arrival and delicate flavors.” Tonight’s vegetables include fresh wasabi peas, glazed spring onions, young Japanese peppers, steamed ramps, wild asparagus, enoki, water spinach and sesame, and daikon sprout “kimchee.” The special will change as it reappears from time to time throughout the spring, with different vegetables making guest appearances.

Soto’s Sushi, Straight Outta Atlanta

We don’t yet know what Soto’s menu has in store (they’re keeping it secret until they open), but it’s safe to say this is the biggest sushi opening to hit New York in a while — or so we gather from Rob and Robin’s story of how Sotohiro Kosugi built a national reputation from his original restaurant in an Atlanta strip mall. This week he tests the New York market for his inventive, complex food. If you don’t have the endurance for Kosugi’s fifteen-course, $80 tasting menu, ask about his omakase. Openings: Soto, Grom, Vestry Wines [NYM]

Vongerichten May Deep-Six 66, Serve Sushi and Soba Instead

Is 66, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s underperforming Chinese-themed outpost, closing? A restaurant consultant moving in international circles (whom we communicate with via self-destructing personal digital assistants) informs us that the superchef intends on partnering with a Japanese restaurant firm and executing a sushi-and-soba concept in the space. Vongerichten, meanwhile, tells us the story is “just a rumor,” and that he’s in fact considering a sushi-soba restaurant at another location. (Of course, closing announcements generally aren’t made until the last minute — they’re bad for business, and the staff needs to be told first.) Either way, we’re now craving Japanese.

Eat Bar Masa’s Fried Fugu — We Double-Dog Dare You

Fugu, or the flesh of the blowfish, can be deadly if prepared the wrong way, as anyone who has seen the Simpsons episode where Homer is given 24 hours to live after having it served to him by an inexperienced chef can attest. (Actually, he’s given 22 — says Dr. Hibbert: “I’m sorry I kept you waiting so long.”)

You Bring the Booze; Micro Sushi Joint Brings the Sexy

Note to new sushi joints: Why not skip the cookie-cutter blonde-wood stuff and get hyphy with it, like the two-week-old Genji? Chef Miji, who rolled rice in Tokyo for 30 years, can now be found wiggling to dreamy, upbeat J-pop behind the three-seat bar of his new restaurant, which is situated on the upwardly mobile, far-east stretch of 14th Street. Miji’s offering up heaping servings of sweet, chilled uni from California; Botan, a jumbo Japanese shrimp that’s split into a slithery sashimi tail and a salty tempura head; and a delicate mash of rock shrimp, salmon, and cod paste. For those disinclined to try the seafood, there’s also yakitori skewers and soba and udon soups. Genji’s four-month struggle for a wine and sake license isn’t resolved yet, so BYO. —Daniel Maurer Genji Sushi, 424-A E. 14th St. at First Ave.; 212-388-1127